The day started out overcast and threatening as we embarked on our first whole day on the return trip. The weather improved from time to time and merely resulted in a dreary, and occasionally fog-filled ride through the New Brunswick countryside via Highway 4 to the tiny border town of Vanceboro. There a surprisingly friendly border guard gave us advice on the moose-abundant roads ahead (George saw 2 along the way - but none on the road).
But before we reached the border we were met with a surprising piece of rail history in a town called McAdam (pop. 1400). The picture above is a shot George (ever the railway man) could not pass up. It was perhaps the most interesting railway station either of us had ever seen. Once a busy place where 16 passenger trains stopped and meals were served and guests accommodated at the 5 star hotel above the station. In the golden era of rail travel there were numerous architecturally extraordinary stations like this, but for the small town of McAdam this was, and still is, the equivalent of a world wonder, beautifully restored (and maintained).
The clouds seemed to follow us most of the time today, with limited solar respites from time to time as we advanced across Maine. At least it was not raining...yet.
The roads were a little rough (and almost deserted) as we motored west arriving for a late (by New Brunswick time but on time for Maine as we are back to Eastern time) lunch at the Empire Grill in Skowhegan. It was part of the set for "Empire Falls", a Pulitzer Prize winning book by Richard Russo, turned miniseries for which Paul Newman (acting in his last live action role) won an Emmy and Golden Globe. The above poster was in the menu.
As we neared the White Mountains in western Maine the clouds turned ominous and soon chastised us for doffing rain gear and began a show of thunder, lightning and serious rain (not like our day 18 however) and we headed for Gorham, just inside the New Hampshire border. Despite traveling secondary roads in schizophrenic weather we booked 519 km (322 miles) and felt back in the groove again. I even got my new Ipod working through the bike's system and listened to some of Micheal J. Fox's "Always Looking Up" (critique to follow when I am through).